PUTHEN MALIGA PALACE MUSEUM THIRUVANANTHAPURAM

Puthen Maliga Palace Museum,  Thiruvananthapuram is an imposing  monument adjacent to Sree Padmanabhaswamy Temple that hogs limelight these days  due to the invaluable treasure discovered in its vaults.    The stunning palace, known earlier as Kuthira Maliga,  was built as the official residence of Swathi Thirunal Maharaja of the erstwhile princely state of Travancore. The construction of the palace took four years. Swathi Thirunal stayed there for one year. He was a great musician. He passed away at a very young age. Considered as unlucky due to the premature demise of Swathi Thirunal, the palace never had another occupant. It is an eighteen and a half acre compound where there are two more palaces that were built for the princes of Travancore.  No one stays there either.  A trust administers the property.

A few years ago Kuthira Maliga was converted as Puthen Maliga Palace  Museum where artifacts, paintings, porcelain and priceless treasures of the Travancore era are displayed. The museum is open all days except Mondays from morning till evening. Though I have been residing in Trivandrum for a long time, I could not visit the museum earlier. The visit was worthwhile. I have been to a large number of places in India as well as abroad where artifacts and precious treasures from a bygone era are displayed for the visitors. Puthen Maliga is a revelation. I feel proud that what is on display here is far superior to what I have seen elsewhere.

The wood work in the palace is remarkable. The precision is unimaginable. The artwork on the ceilings differs from room to room. There are full size portraits of the rulers of Travancore. There are paintings by Europeans. When photography was not in existence events were frozen in time through paintings. A painting caught my  attention by the  brutality evinced. It was the Pulikkoodu (Cage of leoaprds). It was a circular cage on the Sanghumugham Beach, adjacent to the indoor court with  high roof. Indian Coffee House functions from a part of the building at present. The painting depicts a few leopards devouring prisoners sentenced to death in the presence of a large assembly of citizens and the militia. There is no trace of  the Pulikkoodu at Sanghumugham today.

The weaponry of the Travancore army is on display confirming its might.  There are beautiful porcelain vessels gifted to the royalty by visitors from abroad. Large imported mirrors adorn the walls. There is a medicinal cot. Different pieces of antique furniture are exhibited.  Two dressing tables displayed in adjacent rooms are unique. There are the musical instruments, the perumpara (drums to proclaim royal dictats), Crystal Throne and Wooden Throne. Beautiful statues of Gods   are on display. Two ivory cradles displayed are the icing on the cake. I have never seen such a luxury anywhere else. The gun captured from the Dutch Captain Delenoi at Kolachel is prominent by its rarity. It reminds in abundance the greatness of the legendary Marthanda Varma. 

There are halls for music recitals and for meetings of scholars. Swathi Thirunal wrote Keerthans in eighteen languages sitting in an elevated room with a window through which he could view the top of the Sree Padmanabha Temple.  The  Keerthans were inspired by the presiding deity of the temple, Sree Padmanabha Swamy. As I looked through the window I could see the top of the temple very close.

The magnificent palace has two floors. . All the rafters have a horse’s head crafted at the end acquiring the name Kuthira Maliga (Palace of Horses) for the Palace.  There is a Guest House in front of the Palace called Thekkini. Thekkini was built to accommodate the European Guests.  Every year Swathi Thirunal music festival is held at the Palace grounds for a week.

Though I was really impressed by the Palace and the Museum, its maintenance is very poor. The hedges are not trimmed. Grass is not mown. The rooms where the exhibits are kept are poorly lit. The visitors are led through the museum by an official guide who is poorly trained.  He is proficient in Malayalam alone. There is no commitment.  He gives the impression that he detests the job he is doing. He is not proactive.  Having seen guides in various parts of the world and after listening to them, I feel what is on offer here is the worst one can ever have in the world.  Seventy five percent of the Palace is out of bounds for the visitors. It has to be thrown open. Photography and videography are strictly prohibited here. There is a world out there that permits the visitors all this to enable them savour their tryst with history. Lingering memories persuade the visitor to come again and again and spread the message the palace conveys across the world. Eighteen and a half acres of Palace grounds and all the  palaces can be thrown open to the Public after beautifying them. The Chinese are doing this with their palaces and the palace grounds in the old city. They make money in the bargain. Here relaxing behind archaic customs, archaic laws and chronic inactivity we are negating the efforts we make for promoting tourism. Tourism is not for foreigners alone. It is for our countrymen as well. Here is the opportunity for our people to learn of our rich heritage. We have no qualms in barring it. I look to a day when I can state with pride we maintain world standards in Thiruvananthapuram.