NIRMAL PURJA AND MINGMA G

Against odds, Purja's 'formidable rival' brings his body back to base

Nirmal Purja and Mingma Gyalje Sherpa, known across the climbing world as Mingma G, spent years running rival premier outfits in Kathmandu - Purja's Elite Exped and Mingma G's Imagine Nepal. They competed for clients and records on the world's highest mountains.

But a week after the July 30, 2026 avalanche on Broad Peak (8047)in Pakistan-occupiedKashmir that killed Purja and other climbers, Mingma fulfilled a vow he had taken as his team trekked to the site and brought back the body of the man who was once his fiercest professional rival, close friend and on some of moutaineering's most important days, his summit partner.

Mingma's team was forced to trek on foot towards the dangerous slope as deteriorating  conditions had prevented  a Pakistan Army helicopter to fly to the spot.

Mingma said," Other rescue teams have returned due to the risk: only my team is left here now. But we have not given up trying, addressing the pain of the climbers' families.if helicopter flights are not possible, we will retrieve the bodies by trekking."

"This is not about rivalry.  We shared high mountains, big moments and the same risks. Families are waiting. As climbers, we cannot just leave them there, if there is a chance to bring them back"

Mingma's decision to stay carried a weight beyond the recovery itself.

On January 16, 2021, Purja, Mingma and eight other Nepalese climbers completed the first winter ascent of K2 - the most difficult peak and terrain to conquer in the Himalayas. 

They had started as three separate groups, but combined for the final push, stopped just below the summit and stepped onto the top together, singing Nepal's national anthem. 

Mingma, later, had said Purja had suggested that all 10 summit together, so that no one would be called first or second.

From Times of India 6th August 2026